The formula that has worked for me is to take the engine apart, inspect everything visually, clean everything, replace gaskets and bearings along with a new oil pump. My assumption is if there is no abnormal wear then everything is still within tolerance.
As for upgrades, I verified the piston ring gap was sufficient for boost (this one was nice and worn in with 249k on it), and added a performance cam and valvesprings. I know from Derek’s GTO this formula is good for ~400whp with headers without a supercharger! That’s what makes these engines so incredible. They are cheap (I got this one for free…), they are reliable (made it nearly 250k with no issues), and they can make a lot of power cheap.
Less talk more pictures!
New OEM alumimum main bearings.Installed in the block.Coated with assembly lube to protect them until and during the first start of the engine.Crankshaft installed. This was the only piece I did not degrease.The other half of the main bearings installed in the main caps. Torqued downInstalling pistons/rods. The sleeve is tapered piston ring compressor to compress the piston rings as they work as springs pushing against the cylinder walls to seal.“Big end” of the connecting rod on the rod journal ready for the rod cap.Bottom end assembled except for camshaft and lifters. “SS2″ Performance Camshaft. 228/230 112LSA 0.585” lift.Installing camshaft. New cam retainer plate, cam gear, timing chain & chain guide installed. Oil pump, front cover, valley cover, and lifters installed. Valves and valvesprings being installed.Same as above but from the combustion chamber side. Ready for headgasket.Headgasket installed. Cylinder heads installed. Rocker arms installed. Note the pushrods are not installed in order to keep all valves closed for storage.
